Why Retinol?

Retinols can truly transform the function of the skin! There is a level of education that can help you navigate which variation of retinol is best for you and I want to help break that education down. So let’s get into it!

First, it is good to know that retinoids are a derivative of vitamin A and live under the category of pseudo-exfoliant, meaning that they do not exfoliate the top layer of skin but rather increase new cell renewal at the bottom layers of the skin which in turn pushes new skin cells to the surface encouraging healthy exfoliation. 

Second, I want you to understand the REASON behind retinols. They increase collagen, elastin, new cell renewal (as mentioned above), and healthy function of all skin cells. They create density in the dermis which strengthens the skin. They can reduce inflammation, clear out pores, and allow the skin to create & retain its hydration. Through all of this, many undesired conditions can be reversed with the use of retinoids including acne, wrinkles, sagging, hyperpigmentation, uneven texture, and dull lackluster skin. 

The new cells that are produced in the deeper layers of the skin eventually make their way to the top of the skin, revealing themselves as healthy and vibrant. This is how we see the results of our retinol usage. 

Now all of this is dependent on choosing the correct form of retinol, because yes, there are more than one. And no, they are not all created the same. Below is a breakdown of the different types of retinol and their benefits/considerations.

Retinoic Acid (aka Tretinoin): Rx strength. A peeling agent that you get prescribed. I’ve seen a mixed bag of results when it comes to this. This can oftentimes be too intense & can compromise the skin barrier if not taken care of properly. However, I have also seen positive results from this for select people. I would encourage trying the other forms of retinol before deciding this is the one for you.

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Retinaldehydes: One conversion away from retinoic acid. A stronger version of retinol that can be great for those who want to take their corrective or preventative journey seriously.

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Retinol: Two conversions away from retinoic acid. With a two step conversion, percentage here is going to be important to determine the actual strength.

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Retinol Esters: these are very mild and can be used daily in most cases. Because they are so mild, they act primarily as antioxidants and can often be used on sensitive skin. 

***Retinol Alternative: bakuchiol is a plant based alternative that acts similar to retinoids without the side effects also making it great for sensitive skin. It’s going to stimulate collagen, balance oil production, build your barrier, and act as an anti-inflammatory. 

You may have noticed that the more conversions that the retinoids have to go through determines the strength (the less conversions, the stronger the strength). The other thing that determines the strength is the percentage of how much is in a formulation. 

Also, make note of the retinol alternative ingredient, bakuchiol. Retinol is not the only ingredient that stimulates collagen production to improve the skin. So if retinol is not something that works for you, it’s okay! Please know there are always alternatives that can fit into your unique requirements. 

I want to pause for a minute to stress something. Stronger is not always better. Something that the skin can tolerate over a long period of time will create true results. Be patient with your skin. We are not talking about overnight results here. We are talking about true change & longevity of healthy skin.

The use of retinol alone will likely demonstrate improvements. However, benefits can be enhanced with a multifaceted approach. 

• Gentle weekly exfoliation: helps stimulate healthy cell turnover & better absorption of your retinol product

• Barrier protection: while we are pushing new cells to the surface of the skin, we want to make sure those cells are protected! 

• Tyrosinase inhibitors: tyrosinase in the enzyme that our body uses to produce melanin. Our body produces this as a means of protection so using tyrosinase inhibitors (lightening and brightening ingredients) will make the skin feel like it is already protected and will decrease chances of hyperpigmentation and sun damage.

• SPF use: I can’t stress how important this is!! Retinol can make the skin photosensitized & can also leave our newly developed cells vulnerable to sun damage. TRUST.

• Exercise & eating healthy: It’s not always just about what you put on your face. Making sure you are healthy internally will ALWAYS be huge component of improving your skin.

Because every person can have a slightly different cell turnover cycle length (the rate at which new baby cells make their way to the surface of the skin) results will reveal themselves after 3-6 months of consistent use. 

Now let’s look at cautions using retinoids. They must be respected! 

• Use in PM: Again, retinoids can increase photosensitivity to don’t use them during the day. 

• Wear SPF: So important I put it in here twice!

• It can get worse before it gets better: Because hyperpigmentation lives in the dermis, some stuff can come to the surface of skin before it is exfoliated off. Same with acne. 

• It is best to slowly introduce retinol to your routine: this is a great process leading up to a more advanced treatment to help stimulate results. Start with 3x a week and slowly move up to every night or every other night.

I hope this information can help you navigate the use of retinoids! If you’re interested in what services & products that utilize retinols in my private practice, continue reading below.

Otherwise, take care & see you next time! 

Illuminate products that use Retinol/Bakuchiol: 

• Facial in a bottle Serum: Bakuchiol & Glutamine to increase collagen. This one has AC Net to help balance oil production, Niacinamide to protect barrier, Hexylresorcinol to brighten, & Glycosaminoglycan to hydrate. 

• Resurfacing Elixir: .5% Retinaldahyde that also includes Bakuchiol, Niacinamide to protect barrier and Beta Glucan to increase hydration and healing.

Illuminate Services that use Retinol:

• The Boost: this is for clients who have already been using retinol for at least 2 weeks. It’s a 4% Retinol and can be its own treatment or can be an add on to a chemical peel or dermaplane. 

Text me “RETINOL” at 720-837-4235 to book an appointment or learn which retinol product would be best for you 🖤